Part 19 of 20
Tubbataha Reefs, Philippines: the Sulu Sea’s protected wilderness
Reachable only by liveaboard for three months a year, Tubbataha in the middle of the Sulu Sea is one of the best-protected and most spectacular reefs in South-East Asia.
Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park lies in the middle of the Sulu Sea, about 150 km from the nearest city. Its two atolls and a smaller reef are so remote, and the seas around them so rough for most of the year, that the park can only be visited by liveaboard boat for about three months each spring.
Why it’s special
Tubbataha became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. The park covers some 97,000 hectares and is home to around 360 species of coral and 600 species of fish, as well as sharks, turtles, manta rays and dolphins. Rangers live on the reef all year to stop illegal fishing, and their work has made Tubbataha one of the best-protected marine parks in Asia.
It has faced dramatic threats: in 2013 a US Navy minesweeper, the USS Guardian, ran aground on the reef, damaging over 2,000 m² of coral. The government fined the US for the damage, and the reef has since been monitored as it recovers.
What you’ll see
- Sharks: whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, grey reef sharks and, at times, tiger and hammerhead sharks.
- Walls: sheer drop-offs covered in sea fans and soft coral.
- Turtles: green and hawksbill turtles are everywhere.
- Seabirds: the islets are important nesting sites, though landing is restricted.
When to go
The season runs from mid-March to mid-June, when the seas are calmest. Outside these months the park is closed to visitors. Book months ahead; places on the few liveaboards fill fast.
How to get there
Fly to Puerto Princesa in Palawan, then join a liveaboard for an overnight crossing of about 10–12 hours. Trips usually last six or seven nights. A conservation fee is charged per diver, and most trips are best suited to experienced divers comfortable with currents.
Snorkelling or diving?
Tubbataha is a diving destination, and most liveaboards ask for at least an advanced certification and a good number of logged dives, because many sites are walls with currents and are some way from shore. Non-diving companions can snorkel over the reef tops when conditions allow, but a trip here is planned around three or four dives a day.
Know before you go
- Book early: only a handful of liveaboards operate, and the season is short.
- Fees: a conservation fee per diver goes directly to park management.
- Seasickness: the crossing can be rough, so take precautions.
- Nitrox: most boats offer it, which helps with repetitive diving.
- Water temperature: 26–30°C.
Protecting the reef
Park rules are strict: no fishing, no touching, no collecting. Follow the rangers’ briefings and your dive guides.
Book a trip
Compare snorkel trips, dive days and tours for this area on our partner GetYourGuide, with reviews from other travellers and free cancellation on many trips. For the full list, see the world’s top 20 coral reefs, or read about coral bleaching and the future of reefs.
Questions people ask
When can you dive Tubbataha?
Only from about mid-March to mid-June, by liveaboard.
How far is Tubbataha from Puerto Princesa?
About 150 km, an overnight boat journey of 10–12 hours.
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