Palau: the reef that bounced back

Palau is a small island nation in the western Pacific with an outsized reputation among divers. Its Rock Islands, hundreds of forested limestone islets undercut by the sea into mushroom shapes, rise from a turquoise lagoon. Beyond them, walls and channels draw sharks, manta rays and enormous schools of fish.

Why it’s special

When the 1998 bleaching event struck, Palau’s reefs lost much of their coral. But they recovered faster than scientists expected, helped by sheltered bays where heat-tolerant corals survived and repopulated the reef. That’s why our original 2014 article called Palau “the exception to the rule”.

Palau has also led the world on ocean protection. It created the world’s first shark sanctuary in 2009, and every visitor signs the Palau Pledge, stamped in their passport, promising to act responsibly. The Rock Islands Southern Lagoon became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012.

What you’ll see

• Blue Corner: a famous reef point where divers hook onto the reef to watch grey reef sharks, barracuda and Napoleon wrasse in the current.
• German Channel: manta rays at cleaning stations.
• Ulong Channel: a drift dive over giant clams and lettuce coral.
• Wrecks: Japanese ships and planes sunk in 1944.
• The lagoon: kayaking, snorkelling and the Milky Way, a bay of white limestone mud.

When to go

The dry season, from November to April, brings calmer seas. Diving is possible all year, and water stays around 28–30°C. Typhoons rarely hit Palau directly but can affect conditions from July to October.

How to get there

Flights reach Koror (Babeldaob airport) from Guam, Manila, Taipei and Seoul. Dive centres in Koror run day boats into the Rock Islands. An environmental fee is collected with your flight, and a Rock Islands permit is needed for the lagoon. Jellyfish Lake has closed and reopened in recent years as its jellyfish population changed, so check its status before you go.

Snorkelling or diving?

Palau is famous among divers for its big-animal sites, but many of the reefs in the Rock Islands lagoon are shallow and perfect for snorkelling, kayaking and paddleboarding. Divers should be comfortable with currents: at Blue Corner and other walls, divers use a reef hook to hold position while the sharks pass by. Beginners will find plenty of easier sites, plus wrecks in sheltered water.

Know before you go

• Currency: the US dollar.
• Permits: a Rock Islands/Jellyfish Lake permit is required for lagoon trips, usually bought through your operator.
• Sunscreen: sunscreens containing certain chemicals are banned; bring reef-safe products.
• Water temperature: 28–30°C year-round.
• History: Peleliu island, scene of a major battle in 1944, can be visited on day trips.

Protecting the reef

Honour the Palau Pledge: don’t touch, take or chase, and use reef-safe sunscreen. Some sunscreen ingredients are banned in Palau.

Book a trip

Compare snorkel trips, dive days and tours for this area on our partner GetYourGuide, with reviews from other travellers and free cancellation on many trips. For the full list, see the world’s top 20 coral reefs, or read about coral bleaching and the future of reefs.

Questions people ask

What is the Palau Pledge?

A promise, stamped in every visitor’s passport, to protect Palau’s environment for future generations.

Is Palau good for beginners?

The lagoon and many reefs are easy, but famous sites such as Blue Corner have strong currents and suit experienced divers.

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